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Which Gas Logs should I choose
Manual or Millivolt controls?
Millivolt Controls
The advantages are:
Pro:
You can turn the stove on and off with a remote or adjust the heat
output with a digital thermostat. For example, you can set the stove
to turn on and off at a certain temperature to keep your room a
constant room temperature. Hook it up to a wall thermostat or to
a switch to turn the unit on and off.
Manual Control
The advantages are:
Pro:
The cost in lower because the unit is made to be turned on and off
manually
Con:
A manual unit is always a manual unit and can not be switched over
to use a remote or thermostat
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Which
unit do you suggest for a bedroom?
We have special units such as the Monessen Vent-free
unit: DBX series with a single burner, it gives off 10,000 BTU's
of heat and is designed specifically for the bedroom or small areas.
We also suggest the Monessen BR10 which is also a great bedroom
unit.
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What
is a gas vent-free fireplace and logs?
A vent-free fireplace is a high efficiency burner
requires no outside venting, so all the heat stays in your home.
This generates comfortable warmth for only pennies an hour. And
since vent-free appliances do not require electricity to operate,
they are an excellent heat source during power outages.
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What
is an class A chimney?
This chimney can burn wood, coal and gas. Prefabricated
metal chimneys are constructed of double stainless steel walls.
Either insulation or a thermo-syphoning system is used to keep the
outside wall of the chimney cool while allowing the inside of the
chimney to remain hot. This is important because a cold chimney
will not have a good draft.
If you decide to install a metal chimney, be sure that it is rated
"UL Class A All Fuel Approved to 2100F." The 2100 degree
test-standard will be indicated on the chimney label. A 2100 degree
chimney is needed to be safe in the event of a chimney fire or other
period of excessive heat.
There are two basic methods for installing a prefabricated metal
chimney. One is to run it straight up through the ceiling and/or
roof. The other is to go out through a wall and up along the outside
of the house. The straight up alternative is preferable because
it is generally less expensive (it uses less prefabricated chimney
pipe). It also often draws a little better because it has fewer
elbows, and less of it is exposed to the cold temperatures outside
the house. On the other hand, the location of inside walls, beams,
or roof rafters may make a through-the-wall installation the practical
choice.
(Note: no matter how you choose to install your stove, try to minimize
the run between the stove and the chimney. The shorter the run,
the less chance there is of cooling flue gasses, and of forming
creosote.)
Through-The-Ceiling Installations:
A through-the-ceiling installation requires that a hole be cut through
the ceiling and the roof. You can use a manufacturer's kit to support
the chimney at the ceiling and roof and keep the pipe at least two
inches from combustible surfaces. The pipe that connects the stove
to the prefabricated chimney can be single wall pipe, provided that
it is at least 18 inches from a parallel wall. If the pipe is placed
closer to the wall, you will have to use close-clearance pipe, or
a pipe shield.
Through-The-Wall Installations: If
you plan to connect to the chimney through the wall, you can either
go straight out the back of the stove and through the wall, or you
can use several elbows and go through the wall above the stove.
Kits are available to support the chimney just below the point where
it goes through the wall. It should be noted that it is a great
deal easier to do this type of installation on the gable end of
a house where roof overhangs and snow sliding off the roof will
be less of a problem.
If your roof has an overhang which would be in the way of the chimney,
you can either use elbows to go around it, or cut a hole in the
overhang and go through it. (See illustration at left) You should
carefully measure in advance any roof overhangs that might interfere
with your installation. These could be difficult obstacles to work
around if you notice them too late to avoid them
Freestanding Masonry Chimneys:
Your stove can either be vented directly back into a masonry
chimney, or the chimney connector can go up and then elbow back
into the chimney. If the stove is connected directly back into the
chimney, remember that the stovepipe's connection to the chimney
should always be higher than its connection to the stove. To maintain
adequate draft, any horizontal run of stovepipe should rise at least
1/4" for every 12 inches of horizontal run.
Be particularly careful that there are adequate clearances where
the stovepipe is connected to the chimney. There should not be any
combustible material (plaster and lathe, wood studs, or sheetrock)
in close proximity to this connection. Check fire codes and the
stove manufacturer's instructions to be sure that you maintain adequate
clearance to combustibles.
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